
Our British researchers have made intuitive discoveries in the past relating to Guild activity in London. The West End's long established Savile Row has long turned out fine gentlemen's wear for those with an abundance of money. Those working in the less salubrious East End of the city were given less commercial exposure. This allowed them to generate more distinctive styles, which in turn influenced the wider market.
The career of Zachary George Lockwood (above right), was watched with great interest by the British Chapter's leading men – notes on the young tailor are found throughout the archive's current research.
The block between Fashion St. and Hanbury St., taking in Fournier St., Wilkes St. and Princelet St. was a trading place for fine fabrics, and it was from the off-cuts and leftovers that Lockwood honed his craft. His hand-finishing of all his garments was his signature style; rough cut hems sewn with heavy duty cotton thread, patches of different fabrics used within one suit, hidden pockets and handwritten labels. The style suited the area and allowed Lockwood and his small circle of customers to blend in with the crowd of the underclass.
This was, of course, also the time of the Ripper.